This is the first time in optical gaming history that a solution has been found far in advance. Even though the method was found, it had not been disclosed until two days ago. The modification is similar to the Sega Saturn switch modification except even easier. Unlike the Saturn, there is no need to remove any components in order to get this to work on a Japanese unit. Nintendo has also included both an English and Japanese bios within the system. Thus depending on which mode you have it selected to, it will determine the language that is displayed. Also make sure you do not use your existing memory card while in the US mode. For some reason, Nintendo has made memory card formats to be incompatible between territories. While any memory card from any territory will work, they will need to be formatted to the right territory. The bottom-line is, you need two memory cards. However if you plan to modify a US system, there may be the need to remove a jumper that closes this gap. Here is what you will need in order to modify a Japanese GameCube.

2 x Wire
1 x SPST Switch
1 x Soldering Iron
1 x Gambit Screwdriver
1 x Philips Head Screwdriver
1 x Drill & Drill Bit (Optional)

It's a pretty short list, isn't it. In fact, the hardest and longest part of the process will be disassembling your system. Be aware that if you have very little to no soldering experience, you may not want to attempt this. The two points in which you need to solder wire to are extremely small and will need a steady hand to solder properly. If you are not handy with a soldering iron, you may desolder the first wire while trying attach the second one, or worse yet, solder the two points together and have a lot of trouble breaking the connection. Even worse, you could simply remove the solder point if not careful which would be a headache in itself. Also plan ahead on where you want to put your switch. Please note, that we make reference to the system as it was Here is a step by step process that we followed to modify one of our systems.

1) Take out the four screws that hold the top half of the casing to the system.

2) Remove the rear and front controller port panel. You can do this simply by pulling them away from the system.

3) Unscrew the two screws that hold the fan on the left side of the system. Then pull out the fan away from the system, but keep it near by as you won't be disconnecting it from the system.

4) Unscrew all the remaining screws around the right, rear and left side. Also unscrew the four screws that hold the memory card slots in place.

5) Now lift the optical drive from the system.

6) You should be able to see the large heat sink in the middle of the motherboard. To remove it, you must unscrew the six screws that hold it in place. Then wiggle it towards the front and back of the unit gently. It should start to move after a bit. Keep doing that, and be patient, until it becomes easy to remove. Do not put too much force to pull it away as you could knock a component loose underneath or to the side of the heat sink if you are not careful. It's not as hard as it looks but it does take a little time to work at.

7) Once you have removed the heat sink, the two points will be exposed. They are close to the Flipper CPU in the center. To be more specific, it's near the side that faces the rear of the system. Look for the R6 connection. If you are unsure, please refer to the diagram. We have placed a red and blue arrow to point out each of the points. Now connect one piece of wire to each of the points. Make sure the wire is long enough to at least reach wherever you want to mount the switch or leave it hanging on the outside. Make sure you make it longer than it would need to be just to reach. You should have some slack on the wire so that it makes it less sensitive to tension and easier to manipulate with.

8) After you have soldered the wires, lead the wire towards wherever you want the mount the switch. Make sure it doesn't block any openings that may be needed to put the system back together. If you want the switch to hang outside the system, I recommend either removing the motherboard having it run out the rear vent, or having it run out the vent on the right side of the system. If you plan to mount it, the left side of the system has more space than the right side for mounting the switch, but either side is easily possible. If you choose to have the switch on top of the system, be aware that it will be a bit more difficult to solder the wire to the switch before mounting it. Then there is where we put our switch, in the rear. There is some space, but you have to be careful that your switch will fit in the given area. The benefit to the rear is that the panel is removable and a bit easier to drill.

9) Mount your switch to wherever you decide to do it. If you are leaving your switch on the outside, ignore this step.

10) Solder the two wires to the switch. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which lead. If you are leaving your switch unmounted, then you may want to do this after you have put the system back together.

11) Put everything back together in the reverse order that you took it apart. Make sure to place the heat sink the same way it came off and that it is on securely. Not having the heat sink in place properly could fry your system.

12) That's it! If everything went according to plan, your system should now be modded.

We have done this modification ourselves and verified the validity of the process. However, we won't be responsible for any problems you may encounter while modifying your system. Do this at your own risk. Here are a few images of where we mounted our switch and of the English bios menus. Special thanks to Dr. Eggman of the IGN boards for scanning the motherboard.